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2019年5月上海遊 July 11, 2019

Posted by hslu in China, Chinese Food, Shanghai, Travel, 浦東, 上海, 中國.
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來上海,有事要辦。事情辦完了以後就只剩下”吃”和“逛街”這兩件事了。

我們在長沙住了三個晚上,第四天早上快九點離開美爵,進五一,上地鐵到長沙南。高鐵票我早就在大理就拿到了。上了高鐵,一路無話,經過江西南昌和上饒就進了浙江。在浙江經過的幾個城市都是耳熟能詳的,像金華,義烏,諸暨和杭州。過了杭州和嘉興就進上海,再十幾分鐘就到虹橋火車站了。

長沙南高鐵站

高鐵進站

長沙南裏面的麥當勞。早上還賣三種稀飯。

高鐵一等艙送的免費點心和礦泉水。不好吃。不過你可以看看盒子上的相片。這個相片就是橘子洲上毛澤東年輕時的雕像。

從長沙去上海一路上都下着小雨。我們還在江西,還沒有到南昌。

流過江西南昌的贛江。

進入浙江不久。這是多麼美麗的風景啊。稻子剛剛種下沒多久,綠油油的一片,實乃心曠神怡啊。

浙江一望無際的平原。不過,浙江多丘陵

義烏地鐵站。我們的高鐵沒停。

我們剛剛經過以”金華火腿“而出名的浙江金華。15分鐘以後就是義烏了。這是離開義烏站以後的一條通往寧波的高速公路。浙江義烏是全世界最大的小商品批發市場。義烏很小,行政區域只有100平方公里,人口只有一百二十萬人。可是義烏的四十萬種商品竟然能夠賣到全世界215個國家。因爲它是世界上最便宜商品的集散地。

到了上海虹橋,坐二號地鐵去南京東路步行街的南新雅酒店:Majesty Plaza Shanghai Hotel。世茂廣場在隔壁,再往西就是人民廣場。步行街往東有七,八個大商場:恒基中心,宏伊廣場,悦薈廣場,聖德娜大樓,置地廣場,新世界,第一百貨,大丸百貨,等等。Apple 在這裏。Huawei 在這裏。周大福在這裏。老鳳祥在這裏。朵雲軒在這裏。沈大成在這裏。哈根達斯在這裏。肯德基在這裏。必勝客在這裏。麥當勞在這裏。星巴克在這裏。Sephora 在這裏。 Versace 在這裏。其它小吃店,大餐館,賣鞋的,賣衣服的,賣化妝品的,賣手錶的,賣眼鏡的,都在你的眼前打轉。它迷惑你的心智,打亂你的意志,拿出你的手機,打開你的微信,掃到你的手軟,一直騙到你沒有手替你老婆拿購物袋爲止。

這裏的交通方便。人民廣場和步行街的地鐵站不到五分鐘就到了。上了地鐵就通行無阻了:西去虹橋火車站和飛機場,東去陸家嘴和浦東機場,北上閘北和上海火車站,南下新天地和田子坊。幾乎我們想去的地方,地鐵都能到。

到了上海,我們不用傷腦筋那天要去那裏,也不用早起吃旅館的早飯。我們十點半,十一點出門。在外面混一天。吃了中飯和晚飯,晚上九,十點回到旅館還可以在步行街上走一遍。十一,二點才回去睡覺。整天無所事事,進進出出,走來走去,也沒什麽長進。在上海,我們去了幾個已經去過太多次的外灘,濱江大道,田子坊,南京東路步行街,南京西路和靜安寺。人民廣場和新天地沒去。

我們幾乎有一年沒去上海了。這次回來,感覺上海還是一樣熱鬧。消費者的意願好像也沒有任何改變。餐館一樣要排隊。外灘,步行街和田子坊的遊客比以前都多。不知道 Trump 對中國法器的貿易戰有沒有影響到中國的經濟和人民的消費意願。

離浦東世紀公園不遠的大拇指廣場變了。家樂福當然還在,不過好幾家餐館都換了老闆。我們喜歡的一家臺灣餐館,千秋膳房,關門了。他們的菜似乎越做越差,也沒有變化。點評上也沒有任何好評。

我們還注意到,從臺灣來的餐館在上海面對的壓力越來越大。跟“臺灣”有關的餐館沒有幾家不是門可羅雀的。掛了“臺灣”的餐館似乎越來越少。在田子坊地鐵站的日月光廣場,以前的臺灣街不見了。不知道是什麼原因。難道大陸人民抵制臺灣來的餐館?

南京東路步行街

南京東路步行街的遊客更多了。也不知道都是從那裏來的。大陸的遊客一定佔大多數。東南亞,日本的觀光客也非常多。外國人只有百分之二,三吧。在我們旅館下面的一家賣粽子的門市部在這幾天都是大排長龍。過兩天是端午節。

步行街上排隊買糉子。就在我們住的旅館下面。

第二天還是這麼多人。

南京東路步行街上的店面好像都換了門面。舊招牌拆了。老的店面整修了。髒的大樓洗乾凈了。舊的瓷磚換成新朝派的花崗岩。暗暗的店面把燈打起來了。做了幾輩子剪刀的張小泉正在整修店面。店子裏面早就翻新好幾年了。當然,剪刀也貴了好幾倍。在步行街中段那條街口上的上海灘照相攤還在。一個三十年代的黃包車,幾副太陽眼鏡,幾件衣服,兩個打手,一把手槍和一把陽傘,一個擴音器放著葉麗儀唱的上海灘,把個生意做的呱呱叫。

標緻的小姐,打扮起來還蠻像一回事的。

要是再來一個拖着黃包車就更好了。邊上兩個打手也挺瀟灑的。

田子坊

田子坊變大了。後面多了一排商店。以前田子坊沒有幾家餐館,現在比較多了。遊客來這裏除了買東西,當然喜歡找些東西吃。那幾個賣吃的攤子就變得忙多了。

我們喜歡的一家藝術館不見了。老闆大概五十幾,一副藝術家的模樣。他能夠把客人的相片放大,轉換成民國三十年代老上海舊照片的模樣。臉上的皺紋,豆豆,坑坑,窪窪的都給你抹平。女孩子穿起漂亮的繡花旗袍,塗上胭脂,檫個口紅,頭上挽起一個髪結。男生穿了深色的長袍馬褂,戴個帽子,打個圍巾。花個五十塊人民幣和一個晚上,保證你年輕三十歲。

這一帶是新開出來的。人還不多。

這些掛起來的牌子都是以前沒有的。吳語就是蘇州話。

你打入fiao,百度拼音就給你“覅”字。

我唸 初中的時候就被這種老上海的相片迷住了。十幾歲的男生,看到這種相片怎麼能夠忘記呢?我不是上海人,也從來沒去過上海,那時候臺灣還是戒嚴時期,我就喜歡起上海了。媽媽是那個時代長大的,她常常哼周璇的歌,收音機裏也常常播那個時代的歌曲,我到現在都還記得。

典型的上海摩登姑娘。神祕的上海,夢幻的十里洋場是多麼的迷人啊。

張燈結綵都是以前沒有的。垃圾桶變型了。長板凳增加了幾個。整個田子坊給人一種寫的氣象。

來這裏照相的年輕小姐最多。

這也是以前沒看過的。

我猜,現在來上海的遊客很多是外國來的年輕人。不少東南亞的觀光客。他們跟老上海沒有什麽情感上的牽連,眼裏看到的只有東方明珠,世貿大廈和上海中心這些現代化的建築。那裏會對這種落伍的東西感興趣呢。唉,靠藝術吃飯還真不簡單。

外灘和它對面的濱江大道還是一樣的迷人。從南京東路步行街去外灘的人比以前要多多了。南京東路兩邊的行人在紅綠燈那裏把街口擠的滿滿的。用人山人海來形容還真不為過。外灘的提防上都是遊客。照婚紗照的也不少。

從外灘南邊往北邊看。這條步行街一直通道白渡橋。

往南一直到十六鋪。這裏是搭遊江輪的地方。

上海老碼頭。在中山南路。裏外灘蠻遠的。一年以前來這裏很熱鬧。現在已經沒落了。許多幾把和餐館都關門了。裏鬧區太遠。

黃浦江上來往的遊輪和運煤和運貨的輪船絡繹不絕。黃浦江兩岸的高樓大廈增加了不少。每個大樓的外面都有霓虹燈,把它裝扮成耀眼的廣告牌。五彩繽紛,花花綠綠,非常好看。外灘的大金牛也不能錯過。你說是嗎?

洛克。外灘源和外灘

改建以後的英租界。左邊是半島酒店。這裏就是沒辦法開發出來。很漂亮的街景,很高級的房子。不少空屋。已經好幾年都是如此。這裏叫洛克。外灘源,是百仕達集團開發的。

空屋還不少。

老遠的看浦東還真漂亮。這一排舒的後面是舊的英國駐上海總領事館。現在是外灘源壹號金融家俱樂部。

這裏是蘇州河南邊了。黃浦江在左手邊。

外白渡橋。許多人都在這裏。我其實還不想去。老婆拖着我去也沒辦法。

原來上了外白渡橋可以照到這樣的景色。

右邊那個大紅的紀念塔是上海市人民英雄紀念塔。

外灘牛。

外灘往南看的夜景。

晚上九點半了。南京東路上的行人還是這麼多。這些經過和平飯店門口的是從外灘回南京東路步行街的人。我的這一邊一樣還有這麼多人要去外灘。

好久沒去過城隍廟了。城隍廟已經經過好幾次的整修了。店面比以前整齊,美觀,統一。舊房子的外觀全都重新油漆了。燈光明亮了不少。還有幾棟大樓還在裝修。外面用藍顏色的塑膠布遮起來了。城隍廟的老闆應該是要把這裏重新整頓一番。連最有名的南翔小籠包都換位置了。以前每次來都可以看到四,五十個人在這裏排隊買小籠包的隊伍也不見了。

上海城隍廟

這就是城隍廟的中心。

城隍廟遊客比以前多了。我們一般不會在這裏吃飯,不過會在九曲橋旁,星巴克邊上的寧波湯圓吃一碗芝麻湯圓。價錢漲了,不過湯圓還是一樣好吃,真是百吃不厭。一碗八個,一人四個。就當做下午的小點心。

城隍廟其實是這一區的總稱。這裏真的有一個道教的城隍廟,有明清時代的豫園,有豫園商圈,有上海老街。這幾個景點全都在這裏,每個來上海的人一定會來這裏報到。只不過,上海老街已經在一年半前完全拆掉了。現在正在重建。豫園商圈正對面的整條街也要拆了。我們去的那一天正好是最後一天。先前我還以為店家開玩笑,說說而已,誰知道那天真的是最後一天。電都停了。水也停了。大家都在搬東西。要關門了。據說要打掉重建。蓋好了以後,那城隍廟不是成為一隻貨真價實的金母雞了嗎?

左邊這一排店鋪全都要關門了。這一排平房要拆掉。蓋跟對面一樣的高樓。

這家店還沒有開始收攤呢。好多家已經空出來了。

全球最大星巴克臻選烘焙工坊

知道它在這(南京西路)只是以前都沒去過。這次是第一次去。他的咖啡比普通的星巴克咖啡要貴15 – 20%。它還買啤酒。

上海失戀博物館

這在南京東路步行街上面的一個購物中心裏。我還拍它開不下去呢。呢看看有多少人排隊。好在我沒有失戀,不然也要去排隊了。

這些都是要進去看的年輕情侶。

 

上海市個國際的大都會,好的餐館非常多。我們去了滑稽果餐館都值得一提。

蘇小柳

 

琵琶蠻

南小館

 

枚青。臨安酒肆,徐家匯

從吉隆坡到上海我們出來已經快四個多禮拜了。這幾天在上海天天都四處奔波到處閑逛。想一想也著實有點累了。

該回家了。

4 Days in Shanghai – Oct 11 – 15, 2008 上海 ; 4th Day; Tuesday, Oct 14, 2008 Part I December 23, 2008

Posted by hslu in Travel.
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4 Days in Shanghai – Oct 11 – 15, 2008 上海

4th Day; Tuesday, Oct 14, 2008 – Shanghai 上海

While we were eating breakfast around 8:30 AM at the hotel, Maria asked me about the temple at The Temple of the Town God or City Temple of Shanghai (上海城隍廟 Cheng Huang Miao.) She said that we were there for almost half a day but she never saw a temple. She was right. We went to the market place but didn’t go to the temple. We decided to make another trip to the Temple of the Town God 城隍廟 and see the temple 廟 this time.

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The temple was a bit hard to find because most tourists at the market place didn’t know where it was. We asked a few people and finally got a half-hearted answer from a guy who looked like a local with a hand signal pointing to the back of a building. We thanked him for his help, fought through the crowd, walked around the corner of that building and saw the entrance of the temple bout 100′ away. Standing in temple’s main courtyard, we saw many vivid carvings on the roof and worshipers praying for good fortune and happiness in front of various halls inside the temple. There were a series of posters aimed at informing visitors the history of the 城隍廟 Cheng Huang Miao, the essence of Taoism and the meaning of a large abacus above the front gate.
According to the posters, the temple was founded in 1403 to honor local official Qín Yùbó, who had been designated Shanghai’s patron god by Hóngwu emperor (1328-98) of the Míng Dynasty. During the Cultural Revolution (1966-76) (文化大革命wen hua da ge ming), the temple was damaged and closed. In the early 1990s, the temple, the market place and the surrounding area were extensively restored to its current condition.
Also on the posters was the origin of 城隍廟 and a brief introduction of Taoism or Daoism. 城 Cheng means the wall surrounding a city and 隍 Huang means the man-made ditch surrounding the city wall. In ancient China, both 城 Cheng and 隍 Huang were routinely constructed to protect the city. 城隍廟 Cheng Huang Miao is a Taoism or Daoism (道教 Dao Jiao) temple. As early as 3,000 years ago in Zhou Dynasty, Chinese people began the practice of worshipping deity to protect their cities. In the Southern and Northern Dynasties period, about 1,600 years ago, 城隍廟 were erected by people for 城隍爺 Cheng Huang Ye. The popularity of this religion reached its highest level in the Ming Dynasty. It was estimated that back then there were 1,472 城隍廟 Cheng Huang Miao in China. In other words, there was at least one 城隍廟 Cheng Huang Miao in each of every Chinese city.

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Daoism 道教, along with Confucianism and Buddhism, has influenced China and East Asia for over 2,000 years. Daoism has also influenced some foreign countries such as America and Canada, in recent years. Daoism was founded by Lao Zi 老子 about 2,600 years ago who was the author of Dao De Jing 道德經. Dao 道 roughly translates into English as “path” or “the way.” It basically refers to an unseen power which surrounds and flows through all things, living and non-living. The Dao regulates natural processes and nourishes balance and harmony in the Universe. It exemplify the co-existence, balance and harmony of opposites such as Ying and Yang, earth and heaven, moon and sun, female and male, love and hate, harmony and chaos, etc.
The basic virtues in Daoism are compassion, moderation and humility which have been the philosophical and religious traditions governing the lives of many Chinese over the years. The traditional Chinese herbal medicine, acupuncture, meditation, some martial arts (Taiji Chuan and Qi Qong,) and Feng Shui were all evolved from Daoism. In addition, Daoism also emphasizes respect to and remembrance of our ancestors which has been a common practice of many Chinese families over the centuries. The famous icon associated with Taoism is called Taiji 太極 which loosely translates into “the great ultimate”, some kind of singularity or a primordial state before everything was created. According to Daoism, out of Dao came Taiji. It then split into Ying 陰 and Yang 陽 which are encapsulated in the Taiji icon. From Ying and Yang, everything in the universe was created.

taiji-icon
The Taiji icon consists of two colors: black and white; symbolizing Ying 陰 and yang 陽; the so-called Two Aspects (兩儀  Liang Yi.) The black dot in white implies that Ying can exist harmoniously in Yang while the white dot in black implies that Yang can co-exist in Ying.

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When we first came into the temple, we didn’t notice that there was a big abacus above the front gate until we saw this poster which explains the meaning of 13 numbers represented by the abacus. They are: 9, 7, 3, 6, 7, 2, 0, 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 8.
The number 0 in the middle stands for Dao. The numbers to the right of 0 or Dao are 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 8. The sequence 1, 2, 3, 5 comes from the opening sentence of Chapter 42 in Dao De Jing 道德經. It says: “道生一 (dao sheng yi,),一生二  (yi sheng er,) 二生三 (er sheng san,) 三生万物 (san sheng wan wu,) 万物负阴而抱阳 (wan wu fu ying er bao yang,) 冲气以为和 (chong qi yi wei he.)” Based on my understanding of the poster, these numbers mean the following:

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1     From 0 Dao out comes the ultimate one or Taiji.
2     From Taiji comes Liang Yi 兩儀 or two Yi; the Ying and Yang. I guess here it refers  to  earth and heaven or more appropriately female and male.
3     From Ying and Yang out come three. Here it refers to something new from the    harmoniously co-existence of ying and yang. In other words, with female and male, we have babies. From heaven and earth, we have animals and plants, etc.
5     Out of growth comes Wan Wu 万物 or everything in the universe. , Wan Wu 万物 literally means ten thousand things. Here the number 5 refers to five elements in the universe or Wu Xing 五行. Wu Xing 五行 are Metal 金、Wood 木、Water 水、Fire 火、and Earth 土.
6     refers to 老陽 (lao yang) which means yang changing into yin, or moving yang; and
8     refers to 少陽 (shao yang) which means unchanging yang.
The numbers to the left of number 0 or Dao are: 9, 7, 3, 6, 7, and 2 (Reading from left to right) can be interpreted as the following:

9     老陰 (lao yang) which means yin changing into yang or moving yin,

7     少陰 (shao ying) which means unchanging yin,

36    refers to thirty six 天罡 (tian gang,) and

72    refers to seventy two 地煞 (di sha.)

The concept of using 6, 8, 9, and 7 to infer as 老陽,  少陽,  老陰, and  少陰 came from Yi Jing 易經.  易 yi means change and 經 jing means classic text and 易經 yi jing means “the Book of Change.” This is something that very few people in the world know anything about. I of course know very little and dare not to offer any interpretation here. I guess I would just take what the poster says and that’s the end of it.

Now, let’s see what 36 and 72 on the abacus mean. 36 refers to thirty six Tian Gang Stars (天罡星 tian gang xing) where 天罡 (tian gang) is the first star of the Big Dipper of the Great Bear constellation. 72 refers to seventy two Di Sha Stars (地煞星 di sha xing) in the same constellation. According to ancient Chinese astrology, each of the 36 Tian Gang and 72 Di Sha stars has its own god. Together, they refer to 108 obstacles facing each of us while we grow up. If we can overcome each and every one of these 72 obstacles, a great future, luck and happiness await us in our life.

There is also a very important phrase on the abacus which says “不由人算 bu you ren suan” which loosely translated into English as “Not according to your scheme.” It suggests that no matter how you plot against others, one should realize that heaven has already chosen one for you which is “Good deeds bring fortune while bad deeds bring nothing but evil upon yourself.”

From these posters, I realized that Chinese has been influenced by scriptures like this in their daily life over the centuries. I routinely visited a temple near our house call Bao Jue Si  寶覺寺 with my parents when I was a kid. We went there to pay respect to my grandmother who died when I was 10 years old. We also went there to burn paper money for her and for our ancestors to use in their after lives. Over there, my parents would show us similar scriptures which warned us not to do bad things to others; if you would, “不由人算 bu you ren suan.” That is also why we take our kids to temples whenever there is an opportunity. It teaches them Chinese culture and shows them the custom of paying respects to our ancestors. Growing up in the United States, they are not very familiar with Chinese culture and customs. I wished that we had done more when they were growing up. Unfortunately Maria and my families had already moved to the United States and we only visited Taiwan a couple of times when they began to understand and appreciate their origin and root.

One of halls in the temple is 財神殿 Cai Shen Dian or “the Hall of the Fortune God.” It was a very popular hall and many people including us worshiped there wishing good fortune in our life. Of course, we prayed to have good business at China King for years to come. Before we left the 城隍廟, we burned some paper money for our ancestors and wished them to protect members of our families, bring them safety and guide them in their lives’ endeavors.

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When we left the 城隍廟, it was time for lunch. Since we would host a banquet this evening, we decided to have something light for lunch. Among many restaurants there, we chose a big self-serve type 食堂. This was a huge place with hundreds of dim sums, various dishes and at least 500 customers in a big dinning room. There were all kinds of dim sums from many regions of China plus at least 40 kinds of desserts. Several waitresses pushed carts around with more selections and drinks. We quickly finished our lunch and called a taxi to Yang Pu district   楊浦區 to meet our agent at 1:30 PM.

For the next 3 hours, our agent took us to see five apartments: 3 in Yang Pu 楊浦 and 2 in Pu Dong 浦東. All apartments were small: from 1,000 to 1,600 square feet and all but one were occupied. One apartment had one bedroom and other four had three bedrooms. The purpose of this exploratory visit was to show Maria what was available in Shanghai and what was like to live in Shanghai. Maria has had many reservations of buying a property in Shanghai: it is far away from where we live and the stability of the communist government can be unpredictable. I told our agent that if we ever ready to buy an apartment in Shanghai, we will for sure contact him and ask for his professional assistance. After the visit, I didn’t think Maria had changed her mind but at least she wasn’t dead against the idea as she used to. At least, it was a good start. I guess that I have to do more to make her change her mind and actively help me to look for a place to buy in the future.

We left our agent and called a taxi back to our hotel. We quickly changed and went back out again. The evening traffic was very busy and it was hard to hail a taxi. We finally got one and told our drive where we wanted to go: “和平官邸 He Ping Guan Di” in 徐汇区  Xu Hui Qu. 徐汇区  Xu Hui Qu is very popular with Taiwanese businessmen. I was told that there are approximately 300,000 Taiwanese businessmen who currently live in Shanghai. These people live in Taiwan but maintain a second residence in Shanghai. Many of them also have mistress in Shanghai, nicknamed “Er Nai  二奶” and travel back and forth between their two residences.

和平官邸 He Ping Guan Di is one of a few 4-star Shanghai restaurants in Shanghai. 和平 He Ping means peace in Chinese and 官邸 Guan Di means private residence of someone with statue. 和平官邸  He Ping Guan Di used to be the private residence of Mr. Dai Li 戴笠who was the head of the secret police for Mr. Jiang Jie Shi 將介石, who was the President of the Republic of China for over 30 years. Mr. Dai Li 戴笠, who was also the head of the fascist organization Blue Shirt Society and Sino-American Intelligence Agency, conducted intelligence and security work for Mr. Jiang. During WWII, his security force grew to 70,000 men and women and was one of the most feared people in China. Dai Li戴笠 died in a suspicious place crash and to date still remained as a mysterious person.

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